(Modern-day Hong Kong at night)
(This is my latest installment from my recent trip to China. Coming soon: a roundup of action closer to home, including the Moral Monday protests in North Carolina and UPS-Teamsters dispute)
HONG KONG – Chinese junks no longer dot Victoria Harbour. A foot-powered rickshaw is even harder to find. The stately colonial-era buildings at the heart of the old city are now dwarfed by skyscrapers.
HONG KONG – Chinese junks no longer dot Victoria Harbour. A foot-powered rickshaw is even harder to find. The stately colonial-era buildings at the heart of the old city are now dwarfed by skyscrapers.
Still, this is
the same Hong Kong I visited as a young soldier on R&R from Vietnam four
decades ago. Busy Nathan Road still teems with orange-robed Buddhist monks and
bearded Sikhs, businessmen, women in mini-skirts and high heels, Indian hawkers
peddling suits and watches, construction workers, and Westerners like me.
A frenetic
energy is everywhere, and not only because of whistleblowing fugitive Edward Snowden, holed up in some hotel here
during my stay after exposing U.S. cyber-surveillance of practically everyone
in the world, including U.S. citizens.
Seven million
people are crowded into this tiny corner at the southeastern tip of China. It
was a British colony the last time I was here. It’s theoretically part of
Communist China now, but Mao ZeDong would roll over in his grave if he knew
what the People’s Republic tolerates these days. No little Red Books in Hong
Kong. No Red Guards shouting the Chairman’s famous dictum: “Political power
grows out of the barrel of a gun!”
Nope, this
remains the citadel of capitalism that Imperial Britain created after
extracting it from Imperial China in the aftermath of the Opium Wars. Of
course, there’s an edge, an unanswerable question: Just how long and to what
extent will Beijing allow autonomy? After all, Mao’s portrait still looms over Tiananmen
Square, and his successors still pledge loyalty to his party.
“Hong Kong has
always idolized the free market economy,” says Hong Kong Labour Party Chair Lee
Cheuk-yan during my interview with him at his office in the city’s Legislative
Council Complex. “We let the market rule everything and then we don’t
intervene, and that’s it. That’s the model for Hong Kong.”
(To the right, Lee Cheuk-yan)
Not that Lee
thinks that’s a wonderful thing. In fact, he’s arguably Hong Kong’s top critic
of both its capital-worshiping neoliberalism and Beijing’s hidden hand in its
politics and business practices. Lee is general secretary of the Hong Kong
Confederation of Trade Unions—the city’s largest independent labor
organization—and he was key organizer of both the city’s recent 40-day dockworkers’
strike and the giant June 4 vigil marking the 24th anniversary of
the brutal crackdown of the 1989 pro-democracy rally in Beijing’s Tiananmen
Square.
Hong Kong’s
wealth was built on the backs of its workers, and those workers deserve a fair
share of it, Lee says. “Workers rights
should be entrenched everywhere in the world. We have to support independent
unions. At the same time … democratic rights. We also need to support democracy
in China. Unless there is democracy in China, it will be far more difficult for
Hong Kong to have a real democracy.”
The recent
strike on Hong Kong’s docks pitted workers against Asia’s richest man,
billionaire Li Ka-shing, who controls more than 70 percent of the city’s port
traffic. Workers hadn’t received a pay raise in more than a decade yet worked
12-hour or longer shifts with no breaks.
In a city
without collective bargaining laws, the striking dock workers secured a 9.8
percent pay raise and a commitment to better working conditions. Public support
for the strikers was widespread.
(Geoffrey Crothall)
“It touched a
nerve with people,” says Geoffrey Crothall, communications director with the China Labour Bulletin in Hong Kong, a
non-governmental organization that monitors and promotes labor rights in China.
“Property prices are stratospheric. Just going to a local café or vegetable
market is hurting ordinary people. People understand when dockworkers have not
have a pay raise in 10 years. They can relate to that. They see it as an
injustice, particularly when the employer is the richest man not only in Hong
Kong but in all of Asia.”
The irony is
that today labor-hostile billionaires are as tolerable to Hong Kong’s distant
Communist overseers as they were to colonial-era British leaders. In fact, Lee
says, Beijing believes the model of “colonial government really works well for
them. As a one-party, authoritarian regime, they have no problem with that. …
The capitalists support the Communist regime, and the Communist regime supports
the capitalists in Hong Kong.”
The June 4 vigil
Lee organized—attended by many thousands despite a thunderstorm and heavy
rain—was the only such large-scale commemoration of the 1989 crackdown in all
of China. In fact, Hong Kong reporters were detained in Beijing on June 4
during the daily flag-raising ceremony at Tiananmen Square.
Still, the strikers
in Hong Kong did get a pay raise, and the fact that activists like Lee
Cheuk-yan can speak as openly and as critically as he does is impressive. Perhaps
even Mao would have to admit that political power today is as likely to come
out of a stuffed wallet as the barrel of a gun.
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